Lenses for a typical shooting day



After yesterday’s tome of a post, I had a few ques­tions hit my inbox look­ing for details on my own shoot­ing equip­ment, specif­i­cally on which lenses I use most often.

I love my D300 and was won­der­ing what glass you shoot with most often? For peo­ple it looks like maybe an 85 1.4? Great depth of field. Do you use any tilt-shift lenses?


Thought I’d answer this one as a con­tin­u­a­tion of yes­ter­days dis­cus­sion on pick­ing out your first DSLR. First, for the first time DSLR buyer, more often than not, I almost only shoot prime lenses. A prime lens, or a fixed focal length lens is a lens that doesn’t zoom. If you want to make an object big­ger, you have to get closer to it. Most starter DSLR kits come with a zoom lens, most often some­thing in the range of 18 mil­lime­ters — 55 mil­lime­ters, mean­ing you can zoom out to a mod­er­ately wide shot at 18mm, and zoom in to a less mod­er­ately wide shot at 55mm. This is not to be con­fused with a tele­photo lens, which is typ­i­cally con­sid­ered any­thing that is larger than 200mm. So, rule of thumb, smaller mm num­ber, the wider the image the lens is capa­ble of cap­tur­ing. The larger the mm num­ber, the closer you’ll be able to focus on things far away.

Back to me. So, I shoot primes for three basic rea­sons.


  1. I find that the qual­ity of my prime lenses is gen­er­ally higher than zoom lenses that con­tain the focal range of the prime. There are a num­ber of rea­sons for this — the optics are typ­i­cally tuned for the spe­cific focal range, there are fewer mov­ing parts, fewer ele­ments to get in the way of a good shot. What­ever the rea­son, my own expe­ri­ence dic­tates that I have bet­ter luck when shoot­ing under pres­sure when I elim­i­nate as many poten­tial points of fail­ure as I can. Shoot­ing fast with a zoom lens is one of those points of fail­ure for me.

  2. Given all that muck above, primes tend to be cheaper than zooms of the same qual­ity. Can’t argue with the benjamins.

  3. Primes force me to do things I wouldn’t usu­ally do. I lay on the floor a lot with my lens kit. When I was shoot­ing mostly zooms, I never did that. The floor is absolutely awe­some. You should totally try hang­ing out there from time to time. With a camera.


Image courtesy of Nikon USA. 85mm f1.8D — Cour­tesy of Nikon

My go-to lens of choice is an 85mm f1.8D Nikkor. The focal length on this thing seems to be the sweet spot for por­traits, par­tic­u­larly in nat­ural light sit­u­a­tions. Since most peo­ple shoot­ing with first time DSLRs will likely not have much in the way of exter­nal or fill light­ing, hav­ing a lens that is a vor­tex for light is key. This one, I can’t rec­om­mend enough.

For peo­ple, in par­tic­u­lar, the 85mm (and longer) lenses let you achieve those mag­i­cal “Oprah” mag­a­zine cover shots. And that’s the real trick for get­ting a good shot of a per­son: back up. Get a longer lens and get as far back as you can, while main­tain­ing a good tight shot. Set your aper­ture low and see what hap­pens!

Image courtesy of Nikon USA 50mm 1.4D — Cour­tesy of Nikon

When I’m not shoot­ing the 85, I shoot a 50mm f.14D Nikkor. This lens is fast. When I say fast, I mean the aut­o­fo­cus to lock is as fast as I think it. When I’m shoot­ing events in close quar­ters, this is the place to be. The 50mm lens is as close to what the human eye per­ceives as you can get these days. That means, what you see out­side the cam­era is about the same as what you see in the cam­era. It has a very nat­ural look to it and it’s one that I can trust to deliver results that appeal, par­tic­u­larly to fam­i­lies and cou­ples.

Image courtesy of Nikon USA 70–300 4.5 — Cour­tesy of Nikon

I don’t shoot sports or wildlife, so the only zoom tele­photo I carry is a pretty junky 70-300mm. Needs lots of light which makes this lens tough to use on all but the bright­est of events and it’s dog slow. Still, if you’re bank­ing on the best cam­era being the cam­era you have with you, then the best tele­photo has to be the best for the job if it’s the only one in your bag.

Image courtesy of Nikon USA 16mm 2.8 — Cour­tesy of Nikon

Finally, my favorite fun lens is my 16mm f2.8 fish-eye. It’s not the widest you can get, but it dis­torts enough to make the results really eye-catching. I have one client I use it for right now, for shoot­ing big, dra­matic scapes of a large ware­house they occupy. Makes for inter­est­ing dra­matic effect in their adver­tis­ing.

As for tilt-shift lenses, rarely. For those who haven’t seen one, a tilt-shift lens allows you to shift the opti­cal ele­ments in the lens at up to 90% angle from the sen­sor ele­ment of the cam­era, nor­mal­iz­ing the nat­ural par­al­lax that occurs when look­ing at long/tall objects.

Image courtesy of Nikon USA 24mm Tilt-Shift — Cour­tesy of Nikon

One com­mon use is in archi­tec­tural pho­tog­ra­phy, par­tic­u­larly of tall build­ings. With a stan­dard lens, there’s no way to cap­ture a tall build­ing with a 50mm  in total. If you slap a super wide angle on, you may get the whole build­ing, but the lines will be bent with the curve of the optics. With a tilt-shift, you keep the wider angle, cap­ture the build­ing, and main­tain nice par­al­lel lines as the build­ing rises.

They’re spendy. I rented the Nikon 24mm f3.5D for a down­town shoot some time ago and got some inter­est­ing results. If I were going to make my trade in archi­tec­tural pho­tog­ra­phy, I’d pop for the $2,000 and change to carry that bad-boy around, but for now, rental suits me just fine.

So, that’s what I carry with me day to day, shoot to shoot. If anyone’s inter­ested in gear porn, I’m happy to shoot a quick tour of my gear bag — all the other good­ies that helps make the pic­tures. Post in the com­ments or on face­book and let me know.